The historic town Belur, one of the monuments of Karnataka,
is beautifully set on banks of Yagachi river, amidst lush surroundings, in
Hassan district of Karnataka. It was formerly known as Velapuri and was chosen
as the alternate capital city by the Hoysala’s after the ransacking and
destruction of their then capital Dwarasumudra (now known as Halibeedu or
Halibidu) by the sultans of the Northern India.
Hoysalas ruled the Deccan and the parts of present day
Tamilnadu, between 11th and 13th Centuries. The Hoysala dynasty is said to have
been named after the words ‘Hoy Sala’- Hoy means ‘Strike’, Sala is the name of
a legendary leader called ‘Sala’. Sala is said to have killed a lion which was
ready to pounce on a meditating Guru Sudatta Muni who in turn blessed him by
giving him the power to rule. By virtue of this heroic act he becomes the
leader of the tribe and gradually emerges as the king. The Sala symbol was King
Vishnuvardhana's creation and became the Hoysala symbol or crest, from his time
As you look up at the corners of the temple exterior, you
are left spellbound at the ultimate sculptural beauties, that adorn it. The
bracketed figurines called the Madanikas or celestial nymphs are no doubt the
highlight of the temple's magnificant architecture. Exclusive to Belur, the Madanikas
lift the glory of the temple to unprecedented heights of excellence. And there
are as many as 42 of them, of which 38 adorn the exterior walls while the
remaining four are placed inside on the ornate ceiling. The Madanikas are said
to be inspired by the beautiful Queen Shantaladevi, epitomising the ideal
feminine form. The variety of poses and subjects that these represent is
something to marvel about. Each depicts a mood and all are amorous. 'The Beauty
with a mirror-Darpana Sundari', 'The lady with the parrot', 'The Huntress',
'The Bhasma-Mohini' are some of the favourites. All these and more are carved
with utmost care and clinical precision, making them come alive.
If one is willing to spend enough time at Belur, there is no
end to the pleasures one experiences in gazing at the different mythological
tales that these time-tested monuments have to narrate. The temples create
magic during the early hours of the day, just before sunrise, when a tranquil
atmosphere surrounds them. This is the best time to enjoy and understand the
poetry of these stone images. The transition from dawn to after sunrise is also
something not to be missed. Suddenly the temple brightens up bringing with it
the liveliness of the local devotees, who begin to throng in, as part of a
daily ritual. A total different mood sets in, that of colour and light.
